We left St. Thomas for Ile A Vache at 1:00pm after lunch at the fuel dock with our friends, Tom and Christie from s/v Ashlana. The wind was blowing out of the Southeast at 14 to 17 knots as we left Long Bay under a full main and the staysail. As we left the protection of Muhlenfel’s Point, we started rolling in the four-foot seas and everyone went below until their respective watches started.

5/11/08 Sunday

At sunrise the wind was unchanged and the night had gone by without any notable events. Two very large, light gray porpoises came to visit at 9:30am; they were longer than our fourteen-foot dinghy. Thirty minutes later, we were visited by a pod of 30 small porpoise. At 10:45am, after breakfast, we raised the mizzen and standing jib. The boat totally leveled out (not rolling from port to starboard) and we more than doubled our speed. By 11:12 a.m. everyone was up and feeling better and at 1:00pm, 24 hours later, we had gone 61.5 miles. The wind had been dropping all afternoon, and when I took my watch from Alexis at midnight, it was horrible. There was little to no wind and we rolled in the windless swell with the rigging banging and squeaking into the early morning hours.

5/12/08 Monday

By midmorning the wind had picked up again and at 1:00pm, we had traveled 97 miles in the past twenty-four hours. At 1:30pm the wind had picked up to 20 knots with a building swell as well. I took Tracy’s watch that afternoon, and toward the end of Preston’s watch (8:00pm), we reefed the main two points. The wind blew all night up to 20 knots. During my watch a flying fish hit the back of the settee and flopped on the deck for a while. Then about an hour later, another hit a pole holding up the hardtop and sent a shower of scales over me. Had the pole not been there, it would have hit me, and by the sound of it whacking the pole, a direct hit would have hurt a lot. I turned off the overhead light over the CD player that apparently had been attracting them onto the boat.

5/13/08 Tuesday

The wind had slowly been shifting to the east, which pushed us further south, and by 1:00pm, we had traveled 118 miles in the past 24 hours. We jibed to take advantage of the easterlies and to make a more northwesterly course. As the afternoon wore on, the wind decreased and by sunset we started to roll heavily, which continued throughout the night.

5/14/08 Wednesday

By sunrise, the wind was holding at eight knots and we were still rolling heavily from side to side, and by 9:45am we had made 92 miles but were now virtually at a standstill in a dead calm. We kept the sails up for awhile, hoping for wind, though they were taking a beating, and by 11:00am we gave up and brought down all but the staysail. I then sent my first email via the SSB radio to my mom to tell her we weren’t going to be making it to Ile a Vache today. That afternoon we tried to “heave to” but the boat just sailed to windward at one knot so we left the wheel lashed down and took single two-hour ship watches all night as the boat heaved relentlessly in the four-foot swell.

5/15/08 Thursday

By sunrise, the winds increased to between 5 and 7 knots and by 10:00 they were up to 11 to 13. We raised the sails and started off once again toward Ile a Vache. It ended up being a beautiful afternoon to sail — clear skies and consistent medium wind. At 12:00 noon I checked the bilge, and by 1:00pm we had traveled 13 miles in the last twenty-four hours. At 1:30pm I turned on generator and had it back off by 4:30pm. The wind had been steadily increasing all afternoon, and just as the sun had gone down, we noticed lightening off our starboard side over the Dominican Republic. On Lauren’s watch, Alexis woke me at 11:30pm to tell me the wind was gusting to 20 knots and the squalls were increasing and getting closer. I took over at midnight and had a white-knuckle ride in the consistent 25-knot wind until I couldn’t take it anymore and woke Preston and Lauren at 1:40am to reef the main, drop the standing jib and the mizzen.

5/16/08 Friday

At 10:00am the following morning we jibed again and took a heading toward 330 degrees, 200 miles to go for Ile a Vache – maybe 2 days away depending on the wind. It was currently blowing at 16-18 knots and the seas were rough from the night of high wind. By 1:00pm we had traveled 135 miles in the last twenty-four hours. As the evening wore on, the wind slowly fell off. I slept like a rock from 4pm to 12am. During my watch at (12:00am – 4:00am) it was blowing 10 to 13 knots and the seas were abating. At 2:00am I woke Preston and Tracy (for her watch) to shake out the double reef in the main and hoist the standing jib though we could clearly see thunderstorms pounding the landmass of Dominican Republic.

5/17/08 Saturday

As the sun rose we could barely make out Isla Beata off the southern-most point of Dominican Republic. By 1:00pm, we had traveled 92 miles in 24 hours. We had 108 miles left to go to Ile a Vache. We turned on the generator at 1:45pm. Two tankers passed between the island and us, and we were visited by two dolphins today. We sailed through a huge flock of feeding seabirds and threw out a lure, but to no avail. The wind clocked its way back out of the south-southeast at 11 to 15 knots causing us to steer in a more northerly track than we wanted to go so we jibed, turning more toward a west-southwest track over our rhumb line. The wind fell off to under ten knots after dark and we rolled once again all night.

5/18/08 Sunday

By morning the wind had increased to 15 knots and we were back under way in mild seas. All day the large mountain range of the southern peninsula of Haiti loomed on the horizon, and a co

The next morning Dad woke us up early to move the boat because, according to the harbormaster that embarrassingly interrupted Dad’s pre-sunrise deck shower, a cruise ship was going to anchor right where we were. After we moved the boat, we all sat down to eat and have a meeting about what needed to be done on the boat and by whom when the cruise ships started lumbering into the bay. By the time we finished the meeting, there were four of them tied to the dock and one more dropping its anchor right where we were anchored. The Disney Cruise Ship, Magic, was the only cruise ship I had ever been on and it just so happened that we anchored at one of its stops. It’s interesting that when I was eight, I was one of them looking down at all the sailboats wondering what it would be like to live that lifestyle. Now we’re the ones in the aquarium looking up at all the curious passengers who watch our every move (even with binoculars) all day long.

Later that morning, we dressed up (that is put on something other than bathing suits), hopped in the dinghy and motored off to the immigration office. When we arrived there was no dinghy dock so we had to throw an anchor off the stern and tie the bow to the seawall because it was very rough. The challenge was jumping the two or three feet up to the sidewalk from the heaving dinghy held off the wall by the anchor. That meant you had to time your spring from the dinghy; it was like jumping from a moving trampoline to the sidewalk. We walked to the immigration office as soon as we were safely on land only to get there on time according to the hours sign, but earlier than the official’s actual arrival. When they finally did arrive, we were greeted with an unexpected air-conditioned waiting room and the traditional paperwork and questioning. The officers who were asking questions had been the most polite we’ve encountered on our journey so far, but only Mom and Dad fielded them. So Tracy, Preston, Sara, and I just sat and listened to their exchange or read or wrote in our journals. I wanted to stay ashore and check out the island, but instead we had to return to the boat to do our chores and some maintenance items.

I finally got my wish for “shore leave” so Sara, Preston, and I went exploring as a group. We walked around Charlotte Amaila and climbed the famous 99 steps to the top of the hill where they had a large gated area (one of Blackbeard’s homes, I believe) where there was a pool, tourist shops and some historical statues. They charged a fifteen-dollar entry fee, but we didn’t think it was worth it so we walked back down the backside of the hill, which reminded me of being in California and Mexico meshed together. The view was great, and we took a lot of pictures of Kai Ohana in the bay. Back at the bottom, we walked to a square with people setting up decorations, booths and rides for the carnival that was coming up. Then we searched for the library because that’s where Mom had dropped Tracy off to work on the website. After lunch, we found her wrapping up her work, so I took the opportunity to look around. I found a lot of books that looked interesting so I made a list of about twenty that I would try to obtain at a later time.

The best part about the island was the many gardens and much of the town’s old architecture, but the amount of litter in the streets and in the bay frustrated me. Most of the time while walking down many of the streets, we would start collecting trash and within one block we would usually fill a couple of grocery bags. When Mom, Sara, and I went to get water and gas in the dinghy one day, we had to go across the bay between the main island of St. Thomas and the small islands to the south. After we picked up what we needed and headed back to the boat, we noticed numerous bottles floating in the bay so we started picking them up. Sara was at the bow fetching them in, while I was driving, and Mom was on the lookout for other dinghies and more trash. We spent about thirty or forty minutes picking up trash, and when we arrived back at the boat, the whole front of the dinghy was full.

Most of our days were spent working on the boat, but every so often we ladies would go shopping in what we called the “cruise ship mall” where the first day out I found the Dock Side Bookstore. I ended up buying four books, though I would have bought more because I was so excited to find a decent bookstore, but Mom reminded me that I only had so much space on my shelves. After she pried me out of there, we went to Kmart. It has been more than two years since I’ve been in a mall or department store, so I was excited to go because I’d had some clothes on my desperately-need list. After I finished getting everything, I looked around the store and found a whole bunch of interesting things that no sailor would ever need; I guess I’m being cured of my compulsive shopping urges. Once we got back to the boat we told Dad and Preston about the stores and modeled all our new clothes.

When we were in Nanny Cay, I had my sixteenth birthday and Tracy had her twenty-second. The way our family traditionally celebrates our birthdays is my parents take us out individually to dote on us at a fine restaurant and then a movie. In Tortola there wasn’t a restaurant that I was too thrilled about, so I thought there might be better options in St. Thomas. It just so happened that the “cruise ship mall” had a sushi restaurant, Benny Iguanas, which came highly recommended by a wine distributor we met in a cafe. So our second week there, we went to eat sushi! (Tracy went to the same restaurant the following week.) The food was so good that after each of us sampled the combo plates, we ordered seconds of what we liked the most, and I figured that since it was my birthday dinner, I shouldn’t pass up the chance for desert either, so I got a slice of strawberry cheesecake with a candle and of course a birthday song sung by the three pretty waitresses and my parents. Unfortunately, the movie part didn’t work out because we didn’t have a car, so I agreeably took a rain check.

The whole time we were in St. Thomas, the town of Charlotte Amalia was preparing for Carnival. The first week we arrived lots of people were setting up food and game booths, while others were setting up band stages and those very dangerous-looking, traveling fairground, parking lot rides. But by the second week, the partying was getting started! The actual Carnival started on a Thursday with the Jump Up. This is the one that most of the locals on St. Maarten enjoyed the most, the one where you wake up at 4:00am, get silly drunk and dance the street. We didn’t do this one because Mom and Dad are the only ones who typically wake up before 9:00. Friday was the children’s Carnival procession, and Saturday was the adult’s. We also missed the children’s parade, but that evening we went to the square. This was where all the festivities were set up – a reggae band playing; people playing the games; kids lining up for the rides; people dancing, eating and drinking; kids running around; indeed it was mayhem Caribbean-style and a lot of fun for everyone. I think I had as much fun watching everyone as I did participating.

The best part for me, however, was the cotton candy booth. I haven’t had cotton candy in at least five years, and it was so good I could have bought one after another, but I didn’t. After an hour or so, everyone was tired and kind of feeling like they’d seen about all that was going to happen. When you live in St. Maarten for two years, you’ve Carnival-ed and partied enough for two life times, so everyone agreed that bed was looking really good about that time. Besides, we had the real Carnival to attend the following day.

The next morning we met up with some of our St. Maarten cruising friends, Canadians Al and Linda on Cambio, to watch the parade together. Carnival in St. Thomas was really different that in St. Maarten. In St. Maarten there’s more public drinking than in St. Thomas (after all, we were in the States, sort of) and in St. Maarten they throw off the floats a lot more stuff like bottles of water, soda, beer, necklaces, candy, towels, toys, and a bunch of other trinkets. In St. Thomas there’s more school bands and dance troops and drill team type processions and a lot of local dignitaries on the back seats of fancy convertibles waving like Queen Elizabeth, but it was still entertaining. The best part was the double-trailer, two-story steel band ensemble. Man, were they good, as good as any we had seen in the Caribbean. The dancing giants were also pretty cool, especially the one who ran into the tree, and catching himself in the branches, broke a couple off and thereafter used them in his choreograph. After several hours, a BIG rainstorm chased us under cover and then back to the boat. Instead of returning to the festivities that evening, we went to a beach on the other side of the peninsula to swim. It wasn’t the nicest beach we’d seen because there was a hotel right on the shore that made it seem crowded and commercial, but we had fun swimming in the clean water anyway.

When we got back to the boat, Mom, Dad, and Tracy went to our friends boat because they were leaving the next day while Sara, Preston, and I stayed home. I was watching movies until midnight when I heard the fire works starting. This was absolutely one of the best fireworks shows I’ve ever seen. There were fireworks that exploded into shapes of smiley faces, hearts, and rainbows. It was too cool! But the best thing about this show was that every firework that went off reflected off the water so it was like it was going off twice. The next day was dead quiet; nothing was really happening ashore because the island was sleeping off a four-day binge. There wasn’t one store open and for the four days of carnival, no cruise ships came in to port because it was the island official holiday.

Most of our last week in St. Thomas was spent provisioning and preparing the boat since we were heading to Haiti non-stop. According to my Dad, there would be nothing on the island except the people, their land, and the very little food they have for themselves. So the parents decided to get a car for one day and do a “marathon shopping spree” from eight in the morning until the stores closed. Since we had been working so hard during the morning preparing the boat for the voyage, they decided to take us with them that afternoon. After shopping until the stores closed for all the food, supplies, tools and everything else we would need for the next several months, we went for a pizza. And because it had been such a long time since my family and I had gone to a movie theater, and because we have had a long tradition of watching martial arts flicks, we went to see The Forbidden Kingdom. I thought the fight scenes were awesome and the story was entertaining.

But the whole week wasn’t spent working. When we were in Nanny Cay, my Dad and brother befriended a private yacht captain named Tommy Gonzales who also used to be a pretty famous racing sailor in his day. We kept in touch with him, and when we got to St. Thomas he came by the boat in his big dinghy to say hi and ask if we saw him flying his plane over us just a few hours earlier – he’s just that kind of character. Well, it ended up being his day off and he asked us if we wanted to go to White Bay on Jost Van Dyke with his daughter and wife. All of the youngsters went along while Mom and Dad stayed on the boat to finalize the preparations. The dinghy ride was rough, but it was worth it. When we arrived at White Bay, we had lunch, swam, and played in the sand. That evening Tommy invited the whole family to his home for a feast of beef tenderloin, tuna steaks, a lovely salad and all the trimmings. When we poured into his dinghy to go back to our boat at 1:00 A.M., we had several miles of passes, rocks and open ocean to navigate in the dark, but after being at the beach all day I was wiped out and I ended up falling asleep. I obviously wasn’t worried. After a full day of Captain Tommy zooming us between St.Thomas, Jost Van Dyke and St. Johns, I was confident he would get us back safely, and then get himself safely back home.

The day before we left for Haiti, we took one final excursion to Hassel Island just southwest of Charlotte Amalia. It proved to be deserted except for an historical site, but there was a beach on the lee side, and we all wanted to look around for the big iguanas we’d heard about. After we beached the dinghy, I got the camera out and took a lot of pictures of the area including a little campsite where people had built a permanent fire ring and benches. There were iguana tracks in the sand and I tried to get a photo of one of the reptiles, but I didn’t see any, so I got pictures of other things like birds, small lizards, flowers, and an old rotting wood boat. As the sun started setting, the “no-see-ums” came out en masse and started eating us alive, so we all jumped into the sanctuary of the Caribbean Sea then into the dinghy to race back to the boat. The following day we fueled up, had lunch with some other cruising friends we met in Nanny Cay, Tom and Linda, and sailed off for Haiti’s Isle a Vache (The Island of Cows).

Leaving Great Harbour caused me the most apprehension I’d had about leaving an anchorage since St. Martin. I had gone through The Narrows and the Windward Pass (never a good labels to see on a chart), the Pillsbury Sound (I guess the rocks would be soft here) and Current Cut (another ominous sounding name) on a ferry from Road Town, Tortola to St. Thomas to get our visas extended (once again). The ferry ride confirmed my suspicion, the actual conditions were far more worrisome than the charts reflected.

So I spent the departure morning with the owner of one of the restaurants pouring over charts and talking about the most favorable routes. He wasn’t much help when it came to currents and wind directions (the items I was most concerned about); he basically ended up giving me the old worn-out Caribbean nonsense I’ve heard so much of in the last couple of years: “Just head on down this way, through these cays and then you’ll round these rocks here, then you got to squeeze through here, then you’re home free, it’s easy mon, but whatever you do, don’t follow the ferries because they end up on the rocks all the time.” Oh great, how encouraging to hear that pilots who navigate these waters daily “end up on the rocks all the time,” but I scarcely believed it. Thousands of boats navigate these waters every month without incident. We would just have to stay diligent.

After checking out of customs in Great Harbour, which by the way, was to date the worst customs experience we had in the Caribbean, we headed back to the boat to check on the crew and the progress they’d made to ready the boat for the voyage.

We’d weighed anchor by 11:00am, two hours after I had wanted to be off, and headed southwest toward the Windward Passage. The light wind and seas were pleasant, though our progress was slow, and by the time we made it between Lovango Cay and Durloe Cays (the actual Windward Passage) and approached The Brothers (two rocks sticking out in the middle of the Pillsbury Sound – the soft ones, I presumed), the wind backed off to 3 knots and the current was pushing us backward – exactly what I had feared.

As we fired up the engine and motored toward Cabrita Point, the entrance to Current Cut, the wind shifted out of the south-southeast (the Island effect I anticipated), and we shorten the sheets and beat through the narrow channel between the southeast corner of St. Thomas and Great St. James Island.

Just after exiting the cut, and breathing a sigh of relief, we turned west and continued motor sailing downwind to Charlotte Amalie when the transmission failed once again. So we turned of the engine and sailed the remaining way to our anchorage.

Fortuitously, we arrived after the last cruise ship had departed Long Bay so we sailed into the anchorage unmolested while putting more oil into the transmission. We started the engine and ran it just long enough to maneuver around the anchorage, drop the hook and get it set.